Stuff that we touch is pretty important to us. And some of this stuff really wears out quick.

Shimano XTR
Broke my XTR Easton post (dia. 27.2) after 2 years(?) of faithful service. The Easton post is light and function very well but suffered from fatigue fracture at the insert just an the seat-clamp. Bought an old model steel XTR seatpost as replacement. Heavier, less comfortable but gives me a lot more peace of mind and I still like Shimano's seatpost design. Besides, it's cheap since it's an old item and I was lucky to get one new! - Oldman
Kore Elite
Very good looking post with nice shot-blast finish. Has lay-back so can stretch a bit more. Irritating thing was that the ti bolt constantly came loose, causing the saddle rails to creak, so had to constantly tighten until the bolt head was rounded out. - Wanker
Thomson Elite
Probably the best post on the market now. Simple and elegant design. Looks cool too. Bolts have never came loosed before or after adjusting seat position. Use them on both my bikes now. No layback though, so have to get a longer stem to compensate. - Wanker
If you do not wish to visit a colorectal surgeon, don't buy a Syncros.
I still ride a Syncros seatpost for 2 reasons:
1. I am too cheap to buy one and it looks good on my Merlin
2. I have many friends who are colorectal surgeons so I can get a good deal if I ned their services.
I had my current Syncros seatpost snap midway through a downhill. the next thing I knew was my seat pointing at a most obscene angle. After checking that the posterior was intact, I inspected the seatpost. The clamp bolts had snapped and the seat had come loose midway through the downhill. This was nothing a good quality China-made screw bought in Sungei Road wouldn't fix. - Doc
SDG was very comfortable but creaks after 3 months. Material doesn't wear well either, but was great while it lasted! Flite Titanium my all-time favorite, light but slightly less comfortable. Bent the titanium rail on my first Flite after a bad unexpected landing on the seat on a downhill, but it held up very well, very strong! Currently on my second Flite.
Just bought a Bontrager with gel cutout for road-rides. So far, not so good because I developed pins and needles on both feet after about 45 minutes ride. I believe I can solve the problem with some re-adjustment of the tilt and height, otherwise it's more comfortable (softer) than the Flite. - Oldman
Flite Elite Ti
Do it like Tony Rominger: remove the darn thing when you climb the next hill.
But seriously, nothing beats a well broken in Flite Ti. My old still has the worn out leather on it but it is still comfortable. Anyone has any lobang to reclad it?
Coming from a medical practitioner, its advisable to get the prostate saving ones as some studies seem to claim, but nothing beats getting numb nuts and beating the other guy to the sprint line.
I'll let you guys and gals know about the WTB gonzo saddle I got for cheap when I finally get to put the darn thing on my MTB.
The bottom line is to get the saddle that fits you pelvis, your ischial tuberosites (sit bones for the man in the street) should sit on the saddle. Big asses and hips = wide saddle = not so cool, but no pain in the butt. - Doc

Flite Ti
Original racing saddle. Still using one on my road bike. Still looks good after 2 years. Still feels as hard as the day I got it. Tempted to switch to the San Marco USPS saddle. Told ya I had a short attention span. - Wanker

Very comfy saddle for off-road use. Has kevlar sides to prevent scratches. Wears quite well too. Had mine for around 3 years and still looks quite new. - Wanker

Selle San Marco Era saddle. 
Slightly broader than my Flite Ti. Very durable finish. Despite the softer center, no perceptible difference in comfort to the Flite Ti. I guess my butt is already use to the Flite saddle. - Oldman

Fiz'ik Alliante saddle:
The air pillow for the butt. The Rolls Royce of all saddle, very comfortable and very light. However, leather version is not durable. Leather torn on both sides after 2 months, but was replaced without questions asked. Replacement lasted 5 months longer, but also showing similar signs of tearing. - Oldman
Litespeed Ti
My current setup. Slightly longer than the other bars on the market (23.5" vs 22.6" / 23", I think), so suits me better. Not as comfy as a carbon bar but better than alu ones. Waiting for someone to come out with a 24"/25" carbon or ti bar, else might go to a Bontrager 25" straight bar. - Wanker
Easton CT2 straight handlebar. 
I wasn't very confident about using Carbon Fiber bar after the bad experience Wanker had with his Tiger Weave, but I bought this one at a great price. Well, Iíve had this bar for almost a year now and it is still good as new, no frayed edges, no delamination, but I check it regularly since I am scared stiff about catastrophic failure with CF handlebar despite advertising claims of superior fatigue strength. It's definitely stiff enough for me 'cos I ride very 'light' on the bar. As proof, I don't even have grips on my bar and I'm using unpadded gloves on my off-road rides. - Oldman
HANDLEBARS Kestrel carbon (the tiger weave one)
The coolest looking carbon bar on the market until Easton came out with the CT2. Very light too, but be careful when using with bar ends. Mine delaminated at the spot where the bar ends clamp and the fiber was actually starting to fray and come loose. - Wanker
Time MTB
Time mountain shoes was light and stiff, but the sole delaminated after one ride in the rain! Mr. Minit (the cobbler) did an excellent job of stitching it back. Shimano works great for me and doesn't delaminate. Also using Nike currently. Very comfortable for my feet, but again, the sole delaminated after 5 rides (1 wet ride only). Managed to glue it back with 'Liquid Nail' epoxy resin. Works great! - Oldman
Shimano, Shimano. Got $$$ go for the Vittorias or Northwave, just for the "Wow" factor. They still look good even when the mouth's gaping open and in need to visit Mr Minit, just look at Chipo and IL Pirata. - Doc
For the road, it’s nice to ride a wide platform, so I’ll go with the Looks. Don’t know about the Frogs, sounds good as a dual platform (MTB and Road) pedal.
SPuDs, well, not the best in the mud as many would know. But got too much invested in it already so tough! The 535s are still the all round best. 747s, good, Ritcheys are, I have to admit it, too over-rated. I used them because they had Ti spindles. I’m not called a Ti Geek for nothing.
My preferred pedal system would be the Time ATACS, but seeing Porky keel over once too many a time makes me hesitant on the switch besides the financial ruin I would have to incur. - Doc
Look SR2 Pedals
I bought these pedals after using the original Shimano SPDs. I found the platforms too small for my riding when not clipped in ( I did that a lot when I first started using clipless pedals) Anyway, they were red and pretty cool looking plus Look made them so they have to work. That was back in 1991 and I’ve used them ever since. The large platforms offer great support when trying to pick up the pedals on slopes. The huge holes in the pedals allow mud to clear regardless of the conditions. In the entire time that I have owned them, I never had trouble engaging the pedals. Unfortunately, Look has stopped making them in favor of the cheaper, (and not so cool) SL3’s. The cleats don’t match up against the Shimanos so you pretty much have to give up using Shimano’s. The pedals come with two pairs of cleats, fixed and with float. These are the best pedals that money can’t buy anymore… - Beef
Speedplay Zero:
This is one pedal system most beginners and MTB'ers will like because of its double entry system.
What I like: simplicity and light weight. Adjustable float.
What I don't like: hard to walk on and very sensitive to dirt/grit. Due to its mechanism being part of the shoe plates instead of the pedals, it picks up mud/dirt easily if you walk on grass, soft ground, dirty roads, etc. Click in is not as consistent/positive-feeling as Look or Shimano.
Verdict: If you're happy with your current setup, not much gain changing to Speedplay. - Oldman
Adidas Gradient
Yellow shoes with 3 reflective straps and four pairs of studs. What more could you ask for in a pair of shoes? The soles have some really aggressive patterns (black and yellow too) These shoes are comfortable to wear and walk in. This year’s model come in blue and red I think but the yellows are the coolest. Oh one other thing, there are laces under the straps so if you need to use laces then you’re covered too. - Beef

Adidas Jaltona
What is it about adidas, they make shoes that kick ass! These are kind of spacey looking and a hi tech looking buckle on the side. These shoes are much sleeker that the Gradients and look more like a racing shoe. Of course they only come with studs for the front of the shoes and have a more subdued soles but they have the Torsion bar. (I guess that it is some adidas technology thing, I don’t understand it but it seems to work). They tend to run a little narrow too so don’t buy these by mail order or you may not like the final product. Overall the shoe is comfortable to wear and ride in so I would recommend it. - Beef

Feel differently from them, send comments or criticism to oldman@teamabsolut.net, doc@teamabsolut.net, wanker@teamabsolut.net, beef@teamabsolut.net  

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